Options to Consider in Living Room/Dining Room/Rec Room:
* Recessed Lighting over reading areas
* Recessed lighting spots on Fireplace
* Ceiling Fan with no-Hum wall control (Pre-wire everywhere you may want a fan)
* TV and phone jacks
* Dimmers
* Surround Sound pre-wire
* Dedicated circuit breaker for entertainment system
* Two sets of CAT-5 for entertainment system (2 RG6 in 2 RG6 out)
* Dual LNB pre-wire for satellite system.

Options to Consider in Kitchen:
* Recessed Lighting
* Under counter lights
* Ceiling Fan with no-Hum wall control (Pre-wire everywhere you may want a fan)
* TV and phone jacks
* Reverse Osmosis Pre-plumb if it cannot easily be run later. If you have contiguous cabinets from the sink to the fridge, it can easily be run under the counter tops and behind the stove to the fridge.
* Surround Sound pre-wire
* Dedicated circuit breaker for entertainment system
* Two sets of CAT-5 for entertainment system (2 RG6 in 2 RG6 out)
* Dual LNB pre-wire for satellite system.

Options to Consider in Bath Rooms:
* Hot water loop on timer for instant hot water
* Quiet Series Fans (Twist timers on Fans (lights too by kids rooms?))
* Heat lamp on timer
* Fan/vents on individual timers
* Extra GFCI circuit so multiple hair dryers can run at once.
* Enlarged/extra medicine cabinet
* TV jack/outlet in master bath and master water closet (WC).
* Block or frosted windows
* Sturdy Hand holds by shower and WC for mobility impaired days
* Check for wheel chair accessibility

Options to Consider in Bed Rooms:
* Recessed Lighting over reading areas
* Recessed lighting spots on Fireplace
* Ceiling Fan with no-Hum wall control
* TV and phone jacks
* Dimmers
* Surround Sound pre-wire in master bedroom
* Closet lights

Options to Consider in Garage:
* Cold weather strip lighting
* 220V receptacle
* Ceiling Fan over hobby area (Pre-wire everywhere you may want a fan)
* TV and phone jacks
* Outlet for electric garage door opener
* Dedicated outlet for freezer/water softener
* Rolling code garage door opener.
* CAT 5 set outlet set by potential hobby area
* CAT 5 wire to phone entrance for better Internet connections.

Options to Consider Outside:
* Flood lights
* Motion detectors
* Landscape lighting
* Water/Moisture resistant ceiling fans on patio
* TV and phone jacks (tucked in top dry corner of patio)
* Outlet for electric garage door opener
* Dedicated outlet for freezer/water softener
* Mist system on patio
* Soft water spigot for cleaning windows and car
* Timer for irrigation/drip system
* Hired landscaping (are you really in that good of shape?)
* Recessed lights in soffits by doors
* Switched outlet under eve for Christmas lights
* Switched outlet on 4 corners of house for water fountains and landscape lighting
* Preplumb gas sewer and water for outside grill, wet bar etc.

Options to Consider Overall:
* Upgrade all chipboard subfloors to CDX plywood of same thickness
* Upgrade outside foam board to DOW blue foam
* Central VAC? (Rumors of fire hazards with these need to be considered)
* Photo electric controls
* Prewire every room for CAT5/fiberopticy
* Door chimes at every outside door
* Pre-plumb for water softener
* Add an ironing center
* Pre-wire for intercom (especially to bathrooms)
* Add an attic ventilators
* Add powered attic ventilators
* Pre-plumb for attic mounted solar pool heater
* Add outlets under windows for electric candles and X10 controlled drapes
* Install upducts if you have a swamp cooler
* Switched outlet on 4 corners of house for water fountains and landscape lighting
* Pre-frame for Hales Security Dog door
* Pre-wire for security system with cameras at doors
* Add whole house air cleaner/humidifier
* Pre-wire/install load controller
* Pre-wire low voltage wire from air handler/air conditioner to breaker panel for load controller.
* Upgrade thermostats to setback types
* Add fire suppressing sprinkler system.
 

Finish Quality:
* Before work is done, make it apparent, the work must be at least as good as the work in the models. Threaten to not sign for the home if it does not pass muster.
* Check for gaps in tiling and grout. Gaps where tiling meets the wall are unavoidable.
* Try (HARD) to get guy who did the grout in the models.
* If you are going to seal your grout, as soon as possible, seal your grout (two to three times). It is standard for the installer not to seal it. This will void the tile warrantee because it makes it too hard to replace the grout.
* On tile roofs, make sure there is flashing over ends of the tiles so that birds, bats and insects don't make homes in your ceiling.
* Insist on 3-4 coats of paint on windowsills and places that are often cleaned for durability.
* Insist on tops of shelves and ledges being painted. Cleaning agents ruin exposed wood and drywall.
* If you get tile, do not get glazed tile; it is a bear to keep clean because it will show the smallest specks of dirt.
* If you get tile, make sure the back is same color as front! That way chips and scratches won't show.
* Check for screen over roof vent holes on models
* Watch neighbor's/nearby houses going up to see what is being done right and wrong in them.

New Home Sneaky List:
* Your ace in the hole is to not sign for work done or not to sign for the walk through.
* Rabid people usually get what they want; nice people get the bristly end of the stick.
* Stop by daily to inspect. How many gazillion dollars are you spending? It'd better damn well be done right.
* Try a nice buyer/rabid buyer approach. Many superintendents/trade workers are so used to people foaming at the mouth that a nice approach (beginning with handing them a Dr Pepper) gets the job done faster and less painfully.

Documentation of build:
* Both Video tape each step of the build and take still pictures as back-ups.
* Buy a 2x2 and paint a mark each foot on it. Tie a cord to one end of it and throw it down by foundation to show where all the pipes are that will be buried. If pipes are in the yard, document them with the big stick too. Get this large foot stick in every picture that has a pipe, wire, brace etc. The cord will let you drag it around and tie it to things.

Foundation Stage:
* Make sure land is compacted. (Big jumping pogo stick machine.)
* Use foot stick to locate of pipes on video and in pictures.
* Rebar and re-enforcement wire should be SUPPORTED 2 inches above ground level. The reinforcement don't work if it is flush against the ground.
* Land should be dampened before concrete pour. This is very important in the Blazing Desert of Phoenix.
* The concrete should be dampened several times a day. NO STANDING puddles, just change the color of the concrete.

Concrete:
* Run PVC sleeves underneath driveway
* Run PVC sleeves through fence base
* Exposed aggregate looks great and only costs a bit more. It may be too soft for driving cars over constantly.

Framing:
* As early as possible, inspect how other homes are being built.
* Bring Framers and Superintendent a 6 foot sub from supermarket (often) (Fry's makes good ones.)
* Bring construction crew a trash can filled with ice and soda (don't go too cheap on pop.) If it doesn't have caffeine, make sure it has sugar.
* Bring non-messy snacks (do you want potato chip grease on your drywall?)
* Where a large company Polo Shirt (Honeywell, Security company, City of XXX etc.) and a hard hat to visit site during the day. A clipboard helps you look like you are an inspector. Don't stay too long or say anything, they'll catch on.
* Look for big knots and gnarly wood in framing, they won't replace it, but after hours nail good wood across bad wood to brace it yourself.
* Invest in a (battery) powered nailer and stapler.
* Invest in two battery screwdrivers, one for drill bits, and one for a screwdriver bit.
* Buy lots of batteries for power tools (and a 12V powered quick charger)
* Over each door, cut 2x4 and install above door to brace doorway to keep doors from sticking.
* Make sure entire bottom floor is covered with shear wall under the foam on the outside. Stucco over foam allows someone to make a door in your wall at will with a small sledgehammer in one blow. (Good luck getting this request.)
* Walk every square foot of flooring and fix squeaks as they occur.
* Upgrade subfloor to CDX if you haven't already.
* Get twisted board straightened before drywall and stucco goes on. Preferably 2 weeks after the tile is put on the roof. Tile MUST sit on roof for at least 2 weeks before drywall goes on!!!
* Check to make sure all your option are installed.
* Add extra insulation on air ducts
* Seal ducts with mastic not duct tape. Duct tape does not hold.
* Seal stove vent with UL approved stove vent paste not caulk!
* Caulk aluminum frame (not vinyl) sliding door frames and windows to framing. Clear caulk is not very noticeable if put on neatly. Clear caulk is not as strong as colored caulk. Try for squirt caulk between aluminum frame and wood and then wipe excess off.
* Caulk between mudsill and stem wall as necessary to keep bugs and dust out.
* Caulk between mudsill and metal flashing as necessary to keep bugs and dust out. If a playing card can fit in the gap, so can bugs and dust.

Plumbing:
* Get a pressure regulator NOW for the house. Most house fixtures are good only for 60 PSI, more than one person has seen over 90 PSI water pressure in Phoenix. Your pressure relief on your water heater is 100 PSI at room temp!
* Install a T for irrigation before drywall. (Possibly one in back yard too.)
* Insist on copper plumbing on the water heater overflow. How many seconds do you think the aged cheap plastic one will hold up when the water heater lets go? How much does new carpet, furniture and drywall cost?
* Get a heavy-duty drain pan installed under the water heater, when it develops a leak in 6 years; you won't ruin any drywall.
* Make sure there is a good pair of overflow spouts for the air-conditioning; extend it later to be further from the house to keep the wall dry when it is time to roto-root the air conditioner drainpipe.
* Soon after move in, attach a T to the air conditioner drain pipe, one end of the T stays open, the other end goes into a pipe mounted in the ground (better looking) or at a slope to a garden, a favorite tree or even a filtered drip system. If you have an evap, install a valve or disconnect between the plants and drain pipe so that when you clean the evap with nasty chemicals, you don't kill the plants. You may want this on the air conditioning line too. (There may be an Easy-off for condenser coils in the future.)
* Use foot stick and camera to locate wiring.

Wiring:
* Check where outlet are. Outlets behind doors are useless. Have super move chalk marks (circle with two lines) a little if necessary to get it out of doorway. Stay inside code on locations.
* Inspect all Romex; phone wire, cable to make sure it is not resting on nails, metal plates etc.
* Stress relieve/pull all wires up at bends to loosen them where they are routed, many installers pull them too tight. Tight wires may have early failures and are hard to upgrade.
* You can easily make one cable or phone outlet in one room into an outlet in another room by having the first box built between room walls. You just cut a new small hole for the new box in the opposite room, attach wires and go.
* Check the garage door opener to make sure it is an intellicode version. That way no one else can walk down the street with a generic garage door opener and open your door! You can install one much cheaper yourself.
* Use foot stick and camera to locate wiring!!!
* Install dedicated 115V outlets by CAT 5 outlets to power computers etc.
* Install dedicated outlet for large or high quality entertainment systems
* Install outlet in attic if there it lacks the standard outlet.
* Check the upgrades you paid for.
* Prewire surround sound systems
* Prewire outdoor and great hall ambiance speakers (with volume controls)

Ceiling Fans:
* Insist on 2x4 to support fan. 2x2 wood and those expanding metal arms will not hold up.
* Drive extra nails/screws into fan support.
* See Phoenix Fan and Furniture 32nd ST. and Greenway for discount designer fans.

Insulation:
* Caulk the metal foamboard flashing to the mudsill to keep out drafts, bugs and dust.
* Caulk outside of windows as necessary
* Gently push scraps of fiberglass between inside window frame and wood. This area will be covered with drywall in most cases so the fiberglass can be slightly visible.
* Push insulation around gap in arcadia doors and framing
* Check that plumbing and air conditioning pipes are on the inside side of the insulation.
* Buy/rent power stapler, lots of staples, lots of batteries! Plan to stay till morning.
* Visit early and find brand of insulation, rent a truck and hall yours to site. The site may have leftovers.
* Insulate between windows and framing (this should be done by builder, if not do it your self.)
* Insulate all walls of master bedroom, it greatly damps noise.
* Insulate between bedrooms and noisy areas (TV room, Exercise room, B-room)
* Insulate between bedrooms and other rooms for privacy.
* Insulate the west and south side of the garage if you can't do all sides.
* Insulate between garage and house. It keeps noise down and keeps garage heat and noise out.
* Insulate the roof of the garage. (Keeps storage cool.)
* Do not insulate in patio covers, when you get moisture up there, you'll get mold and fungus problems.
* Drywall always goes up one day after insulation is in. Find out when the crew leaves, and show up and start work right as they leave.
* Again check for shear wall under outside Styrofoam.
* Caulk all gaps in foam board on exterior of house.
* Fill gaps on corners of house with foam board, insulation or caulk as needed.

Before dry wall goes up:
* Put 5/8 or 1/2-inch plywood sheets in garage attic or biggest available attic for flooring for storage.
* Put 2 by 4's in garage attic to protect wiring when you put in flooring.
* Try to get two bars in closets. (Work with construction super to get two or to get one where you want it and install the second one later.)
* Make sure tile is on roof 2 week before drywall and stucco goes on.
* Put boxed TV antenna in roof if desired.
* Sweep out mudsills and window sills before drywall goes up
* Sweep off windowsills before mud goes on.
* Add a safe bug powder (like diatomaceous earth) between wall before drywall goes up. Avoid nasty poisons that could cause long term health problems.
* Insulate windows with loosely packed fiberglass pushed between the window and wood with a putty knife.
* Insulate gaps between sliding doors and normal doors with fiberglass.

After drywall:
* If the builder used nails for sheet rock, buy sheet rock screws and put 12 screws in each one of the ceiling boards.
* Put Hot Water Drip catcher on hot water stand.
* Check again to see if you can get two bars/shelves moved in closets if you want them.
* Clean and clear off all plumbing vents and trap covers. They normally just push the covers into the sewer along will all the junk on top of them.

Attic:
* Toss TV antenna in box up in attic before drywall goes up.
* Build a box around the scuttle hole to keep blown insulation from falling down when the hole is opened.
* Run cable up to attic for antenna
* Run cable in attic for security cameras if so desired.
* Run wiring for an attic fan

Post Move In:
* Seal all grout if desired.
* Wax all wood. Two coats in bathrooms and wet areas.
* Car wax or gel goat all fiberglass (tub, shower etc.)
* Extra caulk on gaps.
* Check polarity of all electrical outlets
* Check operation of all GFCI circuits.
* Check that all hot water faucets are hot and cold water are cold and soft water are soft. Hot water has been plumbed to the toilets before!
* Plan on 3K + for blinds/drapes/water softener.
* Consider keeping area for dogs closed off from rest of yard. There will be less hunting for droppings and less damage to plants.
* Keep foot stick as a momenteo
* Run a garden hose into laundry drains to verify that they are open.

To be incorporated:

Near Move in
Post Office wants a one month notice
APS electric gets turned on 1 day before SWG gas
APS and SWG want at least 2 days notice. 1 month is better with a 2 day reminder.
APS electric almost always requires a $200 deposit, so keep your SS# to yourself.
If you already have an account with the utility companies, it makes the transfer easier.
The US West phone company is taking 4-6 weeks to turn-on a new number assuming that the wires are run to your house.
Try to have the air conditioner "start-up" before your walk through.
Hire a home inspector. He's generally worth the $0.10 to $0.12 per square foot.
Reserve a rental truck to move 3-4 weeks before you move.

After move in:
Get a setback thermometer. Look for one with separate weekdays and weekends. Look for one with a 90 second fan turn-off delay to harvest the cold air stored in your coils after the compressor kicks off.
Check your doorbell button. Many times, it is so cheap; it does not turn-off and burns out the doorbell.
Seal your grout on your tile after it has cured and any defects are repaired.
Polish your fiberglass, Corian and cultured marble with Gel Gloss
Remove the stains in your bath tubs with Simple Green
Wax your bathroom glass with Rain-X twice a week for first few weeks then every few weeks then every few months.
Wax all your cabinets and exposed wood.
Buy a squeegee to wipe water off your bathroom shower doors.
Replace the flapper in your toilet with an adjustable one so that the tank flushes properly
Adjust the fill level in the toilets by carefully bending the float rod. Do not put pressure on the plastic valve assembly when you bend it.
Install a pressure regulator on the water mains.
Flush every toilet every day for first 30 days. Run water in each tub and sink for first 30 days.
Re-apply your termite treatment.
Install fans (the $90 Hunter fans are usually much quieter than the $60 Galleria Fans.)
Install water softener if so desired. Check out cornerstonewater.com.
Install RO if desired.
If your fridge and washer dyer are old, get new ones. The improved energy efficiency will pay for them.
Install security system if desired.
Clean out the drip pan in your inside air handler. Blown insulation can get stuck in it.

Build plywood box around your scuttle hole to keep insulation in the attic as you go in and out of the attic. Don't reduce the opening of the box and make sure you leave some sturdy hand holds around the box.
Re-enforce the catwalk by the scuttle hole in the attic to your air handler/air conditioner. This is where the wood takes the most abuse.
 

Notify DMV with-in 10 days!
Change your voter registration.
 
 

7/18/00 9:59 PM HOSLISTE.DOC REV E SH 7